The Ikh Nart Nature Reserve is home to some of the world’s rarest and most remarkable wildlife. Among its inhabitants are the ibex resting in the shade of rugged rocky mountains, the Pallas’s cat that emerges at night, the majestic argali sheep, the graceful antelope, the spotted snake and the lizard that blends so seamlessly with its surroundings it could be mistaken for part of the landscape. Wherever you look, dramatic rock formations rise from the land, and vast, open plains stretch into the distance, glowing with golden hues under the sun. The environment exudes a sense of tranquility, as if the peaceful nature of the Gobi people themselves is mirrored in the landscape. Unlike the bustling cities, there are no tall buildings or modern structures here, only a wide, untouched expanse of wilderness.
Ikh Nart plays a crucial role in maintaining ecological balance in the country. It is a source of national pride that extraordinary animals such as the argali, ibex and antelope thrive in this region. Scientists and conservationists from around the world have identified the Gobi’s Great Plains, particularly Ikh Nart, as one of the last strongholds for Mongolia’s wildlife. As a result, approximately 200 tourists travel thousands of miles each year to experience the stark beauty of the world’s coldest desert and witness its resilient wildlife firsthand.
The Ikh Nart Nature Reserve is located in Dalanjargalan and Airag soums of Dornogovi Province, covering a total area of 66,790 hectares. Although it occupies less than 0.05 percent of the country’s total land area, it represents a remarkably unique and rich ecosystem, home to nearly one-quarter of all animal species found in the country. Astonishingly, one in every three animals in the reserve is classified as endangered or threatened within Mongolia. The climate in Ikh Nart is extremely harsh and arid. Winter temperatures can plummet to as low as below 45 Celsius degrees, with snowfall reaching knee height, while summer temperatures can soar to 45 Celsius degrees. This dramatic seasonal contrast contributes to the resilience and specialization of the region’s wildlife.
What makes Ikh Nart truly exceptional is its location at the intersection of steppe, desert and semi-arid steppe ecosystems. This crossroads enables it to support wildlife from both the Khangai Mountains and the Gobi Desert. It is home to the largest population of rare Khangai plants and animals found outside that region, and it hosts some of the world’s rarest species, including a unique subspecies of ibex found only in Ikh Nart. Notably, a snow leopard was recorded in the reserve in 2021, further emphasizing its ecological importance.
Reserve’s soil being altered with special licenses
One of the most significant features of the Ikh Nart Nature Reserve is the Tsagaan Del Cave, believed to be the largest cave in Mongolia. Unlike more publicized natural landmarks, Tsagaan Del is not promoted as a tourist destination. Instead, conservation authorities prioritize its protection, aiming to preserve the cave and the surrounding ecosystem in their untouched state. This approach is critical in preventing further loss of rare plant and animal species caused by poaching, over-tourism and industrial exploitation.
Unfortunately, Tsagaan Del Cave now faces imminent destruction due to the issuance of mining licenses in the surrounding area. Active blasting by nearby mining operations is causing the cave to slowly collapse, rendering it increasingly unstable and inaccessible. The structural integrity of the cave has been compromised to the point where it is now on the verge of total collapse. Alarmingly, just two kilometers from the cave, five companies are currently extracting fluorite using high-impact blasting methods. While local residents and environmentalists have repeatedly raised concerns and objections, their voices are often dismissed with the explanation that these operations are conducted under “special license”. The surrounding landscape is being flattened and scarred by ongoing mining activities.
Historically, the cave’s vulnerability to industrial damage is well documented. In 1968, one of its entrances collapsed due to an explosion triggered by a mining company, inadvertently opening up the cave. In the early 2000s, illegal miners, locally known as “ninjas”, settled near the site, constructing makeshift camps of 200 to 300 gers and intensively mining fluorite. This led to the complete destruction of the cave’s exterior. Recognizing the urgent need for protection, Parliament passed a resolution in 2019 to place the cave under special state protection. However, the accompanying government resolution necessary to enforce that protection has yet to be approved. In the meantime, 16 mining companies continue to hold licenses in the area, further endangering one of the country’s most irreplaceable natural and geological treasures.
Conservationists, local residents and provincial authorities have repeatedly urged mining companies to avoid blasting within the interior of the cave. However, these appeals have largely been ignored, as mining operations continue unabated. It is deeply concerning that some companies attempt to justify the environmental damage they cause by offering token gestures, such as a few bales of hay to local herders, while simultaneously excavating the land for valuable minerals like iron ore and gold.
There is no denying that the mining sector plays a significant role in the nation’s economy. Yet, if the country’s natural wealth is to be extracted from beneath the earth’s surface, it is only fair and responsible that some of those profits be reinvested into meaningful conservation, scientific research and ecological restoration. Symbolic compensation cannot make up for the irreversible destruction of ecosystems and geological heritage. A local resident living near the cave shared their concerns, “Every day, trucks and heavy equipment come and go. They used to dig and blast during the night. Recently, it has decreased somewhat, but the damage is already done.”
Possible mining impact threatens cave
Recently, an alarming number of dead bats have been discovered in Tsagaan Del Cave. In response, O.Rentsen, a research specialist involved in the study, explained, “We are currently conducting a bat research project under the leadership of Dr. Ariunbold from the Mongolian State University of Education. This year, we have found an unusually high number of dead bats inside the cave. There’s a common misconception that bats are birds, but they are, in fact, mammals. They nurse their young and do not build nests like birds. This makes studying the cave environment especially important, as it serves as a critical habitat for these creatures. No evidence of toxic gases has been found in the cave so far. However, there is growing suspicion that mining companies nearby may be using alternative mineral extraction methods beyond blasting. This concern arises because such a high number of bat deaths, over 40 in a single month, has never been recorded before. This winter was relatively mild, and the cave itself maintains a consistently warm temperature, even in colder months. Therefore, we can rule out freezing as the cause of death. The key question now is whether there may be a pathogen present or whether mining activities are introducing harmful substances or vibrations into the cave. This must be thoroughly investigated.”
The area known as West Tsagaan Del, where the cave is located, holds the largest mining license in the region due to its rich mineral deposits. Despite this, the cave remains a natural marvel. It takes approximately four to six hours to fully explore its interior. The environment is remarkably clean, with minimal bird droppings, and the rock formations offer breathtaking views. There is even a local rumor that Tsagaan Del Cave may be connected underground to the nearby Yellow Wall Cave, adding to its geological intrigue.
No more local researchers
The cave was first studied in depth by Dr. E.Avirmed in 2008, who later published his findings in the book Mongolian Caves. According to his research, the interior of the cave is extraordinary, featuring crystal formations, pockets of fresh lake water, ice chambers and a collection of ancient animal bones, making it not only a geological wonder but also a site of significant scientific and historical interest.
Structurally, the cave is composed of two large interconnected chambers and four primary tunnels. Its known total length is 607.5 meters, with an average tunnel width of 5.9 meters and a height of 9.5 meters. However, it is important to note that these measurements reflect only the extent to which the cave was accessible at the time of Dr. E.Avirmed’s exploration. Much of the cave remains uncharted, and since 2008, there has been no comprehensive scientific study of the site. Local authorities have expressed a desire to undertake a full-scale exploration and mapping of the cave. Unfortunately, Mongolia currently has only a limited number of trained speleologists and caving specialists, making such an effort difficult to execute.
Largest osprey population found in Ikh Nart
Ikh Nart Nature Reserve is home to the largest population of ospreys not only in Mongolia but in the world. It is the only known location in the country with over 500 active osprey nests. These remarkable birds weigh between 11 and 45 kilograms and boast an impressive wingspan of up to three meters. Unlike birds of prey that hunt live animals, ospreys are scavengers, they feed exclusively on carrion. As such, they play a vital ecological role by cleaning up the environment and helping to prevent the spread of disease. Some researchers even believe that flight in birds may have originated with species like the osprey, as they are one of the few birds that cannot take off vertically and must instead gain speed by running before lifting into the air. Currently, around 115 ospreys are known to be nesting and laying eggs in Ikh Nart.
In 2011, conservationists at Ikh Nart began tracking the osprey’s migratory patterns by attaching metal identification bands to their legs. According to Head of the Ikh Nart Nature Reserve Conservation Administration T.Anandpurev, they made a surprising discovery the following year.
“In 2012, we found that the common falcon migrated to the Republic of Korea. We attached a solar-powered satellite tracker to one individual, and it showed that the falcons that flew that year spent the winter near the border of South and North Korea, then returned to Mongolia in the spring. Generally, over 90 percent of falcons migrate until they find a mate. Once paired and nesting, they stop migrating and remain in Ikh Nart,” he said.
Falcons, like ospreys, serve a crucial function in the nomadic livestock-based ecosystem. Carnivores such as foxes and raccoons cannot tear open the tough hides of dead animals. However, falcons use their sharp beaks to do so, enabling other scavengers to access the carcass. Without falcons, decomposing animals can become breeding grounds for bacteria and spread disease. A cautionary example comes from India, where cows are revered and their carcasses were traditionally consumed by vultures. After vultures were eradicated due to widespread misunderstanding, decomposing cow carcasses led to a rise in infectious diseases. Eventually, the Indian government was forced to reintroduce vultures through national funding programs. In Mongolia, similar misconceptions persist. Some herders mistakenly believe that hawks or falcons attack livestock and, as a result, burn them or destroy their nests. In reality, these birds do not prey on healthy animals but feed only on carcasses. Their presence is essential to maintaining environmental health, particularly in regions like the Gobi where disease can spread rapidly in open pasturelands.
Mining companies offer hay as support to herders
During the winter of 2022 and 2023, Ikh Nart experienced extreme cold, resulting in the death of not only wild animals but also large numbers of livestock. Despite the scale of the loss, the situation was not treated as a crisis, as it was attributed to natural causes. One conservationist noted, “Those capable of withstanding the harsh conditions survive; the rest perish. This is nature’s way. Only those that can endure such adversity can remain truly wild. It’s not appropriate to intervene every time it snows or turns cold by bringing in hay and fodder.”
“If we regularly supply food, even wild animals will start to depend on it, losing their instinct to fend for themselves. While it may be acceptable to provide a limited amount of emergency feed during extreme periods, overreliance undermines the essence of being wild. Some mining company owners offer hay as a form of support, but we never accept it. Conservation cannot be equated with handing out a few bales of grass,” he added.
Currently, about 80 herder households reside within the Ikh Nart Nature Reserve, and many of them actively contribute to conservation efforts. They are organized into four community-based conservation groups, working closely with local environmental specialists. Under the “Home to Home” initiative, conservationists provide training to herders, raising awareness about the vital role of community participation in environmental protection. Moreover, researchers attach satellite tracking devices to up to ten animals each year to monitor their movements and health, helping identify signs of disease in wildlife populations.
The model of protecting state-protected areas through public-private partnerships offers several advantages, such as increased flexibility and local engagement. However, it also presents significant challenges. Conservationists at Ikh Nart are not considered government employees and therefore earn salaries that are approximately 70 percent lower than those in the public sector. Although the local government allocates 18 million MNT annually to cover fuel costs for conservation activities, this funding is insufficient. Patrolling vast areas with limited resources, using cars and motorcycles shared by just four to five rangers, stretches both the team and the budget to their limits.
Artificial ponds increase risk of disease transmission from livestock to wildlife
In recent years, the construction of artificial ponds in specially protected areas has increased. However, this practice has not been fully embraced by the conservationists and local residents of Ikh Nart. O.Rentsen informed, “Artificial ponds pose a risk of disease transmission from domestic livestock to wild animals. When ungulates drink from stagnant water, the likelihood of spreading infections rises significantly. Unlike running water, which naturally filters contaminants, man-made ponds can become hotspots for disease. In fact, artificial water sources are generally avoided in areas where wild animal populations are dense.”
Despite such concerns, wildlife populations in Ikh Nart have grown significantly. Currently, the reserve is home to over 500 argali, more than 200 ibex and an additional 400 ibex scattered across the reserve, representing a population increase of more than 70 percent since the establishment of the local conservation administration. However, not all species have fared well. The number of marmots, once so numerous they were said to make the ground seem alive, has sharply declined due to decreasing precipitation and the broader impacts of climate change. By 2018, the population had dwindled to just seven or eight individuals. In response, as part of a local mining company’s conservation plan, 50 marmots were reintroduced from the Khustai Range. As of October last year, surveys recorded a total of 27 reintroduced and 79 naturally present marmots in the area, indicating that reintroduction efforts are beginning to take effect.
